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Sample Of Restaurant Reviews

DINING IN HAWAII. The image forms in your mind. Delicious, healthy island foods such as fresh fish, sweet pineapple and papaya, macadamia nut pie and a tropical drink. Well...maybe. Unlike other guidebooks which lead you to believe that every meal in Hawaii will be a feast, we are here to tell you that you will have ample opportunity to have hideous food served by uncaring oafs, as well as great meals served in the ambiance of a lifetime. We probably receive more letters of appreciation from readers about our brutally honest restaurant reviews than any other subject. Here are just a few of the reviews from our 3rd edition of Oahu Revealed. (They're in no particular order here, but are categorized in the book.) Recommended restaurants are highlighted by an Ono symbol. 

• • • • •

Bogart's Cafe
Ono3045 Monsarrat Ave. 739-0999
One of the best cafes on Oahu. Breakfast is their specialty here, and we always get the waffle with Nutella (chocolate hazelnut spread) and strawberries. The omelettes are consistently incredible and expertly packed with gourmet ingredients. Nobody can beat their roasted potatoes. Then there's the coffee and the milkshakes and the smoothies and...well, we’re impressed every time we eat here. Lunch is slightly cheaper, but they certainly don't skimp on the quality. Only drawbacks are no bathroom, and you bus your own table. No one's perfect, but Bogart's comes close. $6-$15 for breakfast and lunch. Cash only. They're in a small strip mall on Montsarrat Ave. just north of Leahi St. (see map page 49). You can walk to it from the east side of Waikiki.



Perry's Smorgy
2380 Kuhio Ave.
926-0184
All buffets all the time. The food ain't exactly gourmet, but it's cheap and you can keep eating till you're tired. On the corner of Kuhio and Kanekapolei. They have a scenic, outdoor courtyard--an unusual luxury for such a good price. $8 for breakfast, $9 for lunch, $12 for dinner.


Yard House
Ono226 Lewers St. 923-9273
A small chain with a pow-erful trademark. They have 130 beers on tap. (Mainland locations have over 200 on tap, so ignore the sign out front saying they have the largest selection in the world here.) They use some impressive technology and infrastructure to keep the beer cold here. The chain is named after the 3-foot-tall glasses they used to offer. (You'll now have to settle for a half-yard of beer.) As for food, they have a huge selection of steak, rib, seafood, burgers, pizza and more, and the quality is pretty good. $12-$35 for lunch and dinner. Easy to spot on Lewers mauka of Kalia Rd.


Sergio's
2005 Kalia Rd.
951-6900
A fine selection of pastas and meats (the latter accounting for the higher prices) with pleasing decor and nice views of the Hilton Lagoon from the back tables. The problem is the food. It reads well, but results are disappointing. And avoid the appetizers, which seem surprisingly bad. Vast wine list and a huge dessert selection (unusual for an Italian restaurant). In short--overpriced for what you get. In the Hilton Hawaiian Village. $20-$50 for dinner.


Morio's Sushi
Ono2443 Kuhio Ave. 741-5121
After reviewing chain restaurants day in and day out (don't pity us), it's always a joy to find hidden gems like this one. Nearly every seat is taken or reserved when they open their doors at 6:30 p.m. Make reservations and try to sit at the bar where you'll be entertained by Morio himself. If not, you might get the table by the door where passersby window-shop your sushi. With around 20 seats, you can't get picky. Only a few rolls are priced over $10, a much better deal than the inferior sushi you find in the grocery stores around here. The platters and combos are even better deals, so bring some friends and stuff your face for cheap cheap. Free miso soup and salad with your order, and don't forget to byob. $8-$20. On Kuhio Ave. just East of Uluniu Avenue. Closed Sunday.


Beard Papa's
2370 Kuhio Ave.
922-8726
They make crispy cream puffs and stuff them with flavored custard. They're good, but take one bite and custard squirts out everywhere. They also make mini sandwiches, which are easier to eat. $2-$6. In Food Pantry at the corner of Kuhio and Walina.


La Mariana Sailing Club
Ono50 Sand Island Access
848-2800
A real find. This is the sort of blast-from-the-past atmosphere where you'd expect to see a young Elvis walking in with a beach babe on his arm. The last vintage tiki restaurant, it's been here over 50 years. The walls are all bamboo and tiki statues, there's an indoor waterfall and huge fish tank, plush booths, Christmas lights, glass globes and puffer fish lamps, all accented by a nightly piano player. The decor definitely works best at night. As for the food, it varies between good and reasonable. A mostly steak and seafood affair with kickin' prime rib and ample mai tais. The atmosphere makes it an easy place to like for those trying to
discover the Hawaiian dining experience of yesteryear. Take Ala Moana to Sand Island Access Road and look for a sign on the right. $9-$16 for lunch, $13-$30 for dinner. They're part of the nearby boat harbor, and you may find some salty dogs at the bar.


El Burrito
550 Piikoi St.
596-8225
We like the tamales here, and that's about it. The carnitas is dry chunks of pork, the salsa is cheap and the beans and rice taste burnt. You can actually hear the microwave being used in the kitchen. Only eight tables inside this hole-in-the-wall, but you're sure to find a seat. Cash only; $6-$15 for lunch and dinner. On the corner of Piikoi and Kapiolani.


Mabuhay Cafe
Ono1049 River St. • 545-1956
Filipino--We're adventurous eaters, and true Filipino food is filled with pretty exotic ingredients. But there are some items on this menu that we couldn't bring ourselves to try. Pork igado is one such dish with numerous organs cooked in vinegar and soy sauce. So why the ono? Because their pork adobo is so tender and juicy that it truly melts in your mouth. Even the rice that soaks up the adobo's red gravy becomes sumptuous. With red-and-white-checkered tablecloths and smiling servers who might not speak your language, you're in for a treat if you eat here. On River St. near Hotel St. $9-$15 for lunch and dinner.


Soul de Cuba
1121 Bethel St.
545-2822
Cuban--This is Hawai'i's home for authentic Cuban cuisine. It's casual dining, but the classy atmosphere says otherwise. With all the memorabilia on the walls, you feel like you're wrapped up in a Cuban cigar. We can easily recommend drinks and pupus here. Their mojitos will give you goosebumps, and the empanadas are genuine. The sandwiches are a good deal, but the traditional entrees are less than impressive. Most plates include lusciously seasoned meat paired with boring white rice, black beans and overcooked plantains. $10-$30 for lunch and dinner. On Bethel St. across from the Hawai'i Theater.


Formaggio Grill
Ono305 Hahani St. 263-2633
American--When the long-time chef and manager at Hy's Steakhouse in Waikiki went off on their own, we expected greatness here. And we weren't disappointed. If menus were resumes, we'd hire these guys in a second. The best description of any item goes to their Kawainui tap water with its "aromatics of beer can rust, moss and rubbah slippahs...with a hint of tadpole." They have creative entrees of beef, lamb and seafood, but don't come here without ordering the sweet potato fries. We highly recommend the signature items, like crab-crusted salmon or kobe shortribs. For lunch, try the paninis. There's also an impressive wine list with 40 wines by the glass and an in-house sommelier. $15-$50 for lunch and dinner. On the corner of Hahani St. and Kailua Rd.


Hale'iwa Eats Thai
66-079 Kamehameha
637-4247
Thai--Mediocre Thai food. The flavors seem prefabricated, and their heat index is very mild. At least the Thai iced teas are served extra-large. Curries are full of fresh veggies, and the portions are bigger than normal. If you're in Hale'iwa and you must have Thai for dinner, well, this is it. (For lunch hit Opal's Thai.) Near Matsumoto's on the north end of town. $12-$23 for lunch and dinner.



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